Replacement Fascia, Soffits and Guttering Peterborough
As seen in this photo this house looks extremely run down and requires new fascia’s, soffits, guttering and cladding. The lintel above the window and front door had also taking a bashing and was leaking water between the lintel and the lower cladding area.
Throughout this blog we will take you through step by step on how we transformed this run down house in Whittlesea Peterborough, to a more modern and insulated property.
Replacement or Capping over Fascia and Soffits
There are two methods of sorting out old run down fascia’s and soffits. Many Peterborough homeowners when asked by the roofline salesmen will be asked what they want to achieve with new fascias and soffits. 9 out of 10 times the homeowner will reply that they do not want to ever repaint their fascia and soffit boards and they want it to remain looking clean.
Types of replacement fascia’s
Capping Fascia’s – If your aim is to simply never paint your fascias and soffits again then capping over the fascias and soffits might be the best option. Another term for this would be over-boarding as this is an excellent cheaper choice. By placing new fascia and soffit boards directly over the top of the current ones will prevent decades of roofline issues without the need to remove the existing ones. As this is much quicker to achieve, then this will save you hundreds if not thousands of pounds.
Full Replacement Fascias – If your roofline is infested or rotted in a large area of the roof then this is a must option. If you have a roofline issues such as inadequate pitch or even a lack of tile or slate cover or a large area of wood rot, then the supporting structure will need to be replaced. A full replacement fascias and soffits will however take considerably much longer than capping over, therefore will cost much more not only due to man time, but the boards cost considerably more also.
To keep the cost down the Peterborough homeowner requested for the fascia board and soffits to boarded over the existing fascias and soffits boards. As there was no damage to the existing support beams and the fascia and soffit boards then this was the best option.
Fascias and Soffits Installation
The first thing we consider when installing new or replacement fascia’s and soffit boards is health and safety. All main work carried out will be on top of the scaffolding.
The fascia boards were premeasured and cut using a metal blade then fixed using plastic headed nails. The joins were between the two pieces of fascia boards were connected with a fascia joint.
Replacement Soffits Peterborough
Prior to installing the hollow soffit boards a starting strip is fixed in place with screws and wall plugs. The soffit boards are then pre-measured then cut to size. The boards are inserted from the starter strip then fixed vertically into the over-hang on the fascia board.
The Soffit boards are then clipped into one another forming 1 long soffit board whilst each individual board is then securely nailed with a soffit white plastic head nail. This prevents wind from removing the soffit boards after installation.
Fascia-board Box End
The Box-End is located where the fascia and soffit boards meet in the corners the property with the side gable-ends. Its purpose is to connect the fascia and soffits from the front and rear of the house to the side gables / fascias with a neat finish.
The box-ends have many various cuts and angles to complete a box-end.
Replacement Guttering Peterborough
Plastic guttering and downpipes are extremely versatile and can be installed to replicate current cast iron guttering.
Firstly the running outlet is fixed in position above the current soakaway. A small piece of guttering is then attached with a stop-end. Once this is attached then the remainder of the guttering brackets are attached to the fascia-board ensuring that there is the correct flow back to the downpipe. Another stop end is attached to the opposing side. Once the guttering is securely fixed within the brackets then a 45 degree joint and small pre-measured downpipe is inserted. Another 45 degree attachment is then fixed with the remained of the down pipe allowing the bottom end to fall naturally into the soakaway. This is commonly known as a ‘swan-neck’. The downpipe is now secured using downpipe brackets.
Lintel Flashing
Prior to any cladding work the lintel required external flashing to ensure it was watertight. The occupier had previously complained that water would run down the wall of the house and then make its way through the brickwork and into the house. The flashing required an undercoat known as a primer. Once this primer had set then two coats of cladding applied. The cladding was carefully installed using a hard roller ensuring that there was no air bubbles.
Replacement Cladding
The cladding used was Hollow Shiplap Cladding made from uPVC. The uPVC material would ensure that the cladding would remain water proof and not lose its colour in future years. Prior to the insulation of the cladding wooded battens were fixed to the wall in equal spaces using wall plugs and long screws. The battens used were treated so that they would not rot. Once the battens were fixed then the first cladding was installed. To the left of the cladding a starter cladding trim was fitted to the left batten. The starter trim covers over the cladding ends ensuring a neat finish.
A second piece of cladding board was then placed on top of this bottom cladding board then gently tapped to connect the cladding board below. This was repeated until all lengths were attached. Cladding fitted around the window would be cut to size using a multi-machine. As this project was 7.5m long and the cladding comes in 5m length, joints were then required to overlap the connections between the horizontal lengths.
Once the cladding had completely been installed then a starter trim was then fitted to the right side of the cladding forming a neat finish. Where the cladding meets the soffit boards, a trim and silicon was used to seal the cladding from any future rain fall. Around the windows would also be sealed, trims and corner finishers were used to provide a watertight stunning finish.
